July 2006 Archives

If Villas are more your style, then take a look at these two villas located in Bebek. Both the properties are three storey villas with views to the sea. A well looked after garden and sprawling space are their main attractions. Though the villas need renovation, they could be revamped well if purchased by someone with an eye to using the land surrounding it artistically.

A home that you should not miss if you can get it is a two storey house placed with a marvelous view of the Bosphorous, positioned right in the middle of it with a chance to wonder for ages over the single bridge connecting two diverse cultures. With full access to the main road and close to a leisure club, you could while away many a day just hiding away near the Bosphorous.

For condos, you could keep a check on The Senator and Club Pera Palas for their listings on available condos. If you choose you could be instantly notified of new condo listings.

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Get yourslef flats for upto 6 months in the Beyoglu area, which is the pulse of Istanbul's day and night life. Whether you stay in Istiklal Street resounding with funky cafes, bluesy bars, restaurants and cinemas or at Taksim Square which houses the quaint open air museum or other neighbouring areas which are the spots for internatinal Jazz Festivals, film festivals, Music Days and a Blues Festival.

A one bedroom flat that I particularly like is 10 minutes walking distance from Taksim Square, which is the heart of arts and culture activities in Istanbul. The flat boasts of a winter garden, stone walls covered with plaster reminiscent of the Ottomon empire and all the basic amenities like phone, vacuum cleaner, lamps, stove, central heating, etc.

A rather grand two bedroom flat in a historical building furnished in the neo-classical and art nouveau styles is situated just 5 minutes away from Istiklal street and is fully furnished with antiques and candelabrums's, carpets and rugs setting an old world charm that reflects the city. Other than all the things you can think of from linen to washing machines to music sets to plates, this flat also has wireless internet connection!

Many, many more one and two bedroom flats in this area are available for you to enjoy a stay in the very center of Istanbul.

A two bedroom flat With pale bluey-green walls and white trims giving an ornate look, overlooking the paved tiled street of Istiklal has a balcony with a view to the Bosphorous can be your home for a short stay. With wooden floors and comfy couches in the living room, a stocked kitchen and airconditioning, this flat is one of the many available including one with four star tourist rating.

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Living in Istanbul is a life of indolence and energy, efficiency and warmth - it is like sharing your room with a person who has two distinctly different but enagaging personas. Europe and Asia meet in all their glory in this city separated by the dazzling Bosphorous.

Simeon Mitropolitski, a Canadian analyst quotes an old saying that assures you that in a bazaar in Istanbul you can find anything at all - even milk from a chicken - and in this case, residential real estate to suit anyone's pocket. He gives us a rundown of the real estate scene in Istanbul with per square meter and per month rates ranging from $150 per month to $25,000 per month!

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I wish I could say with a grand air, "Turkey has always fascinated me" , or that the idea of a place which has been the vortex of the Ottomon Empire, seen Roman rulers come and go, inspired Yeats to write almost an ode to it was what drew me to this land of monumental history and eternal beauty. But truly it was a moment of one-upmanship with a boyfriend. I needed to know more about this exotic place he had mentioned and I drowned myself in information.

However I came to it, I can only be grateful that I did.
No words i use could paint for you the power and granduer, the blue mosques, the bustling crowds, the dark cisterns under your feet, no words could draw you in better than Yeats' poem 'Sailing to Byzantium'.

Whether he talks of  'the golden smithies of the Emperor, Marbles of the dancing floor' or its people 'caught in that sensual music all neglect
Monuments of unageing intellect', he does a much better job than I ever could.

Take a look at the poem.

For my part, I will say this - any place that can literally bridge the gap between two continents is worth an encounter with.

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Two short trips you can make from Venice are to Lido and Murano. The most enchanting thing about Lido is probably its story – as the main land barrier between Venice and the sea, it has seen many a ceremonious ring dropping in its shallow waters to celebrate the marriage of Venice with the sea.

Lido is not the cleanest beach, but it is the one place in Venice that offers cheap stays, a golf course and allows mopeds on its roads. The one time it gets more attention than Venice is in September during the International Film Festival. You can take several of the water buses from Venice down to Lido.

When you go to see the glassblowing factories on the Murano, also take time to visit brightly colored Burano, famous for its lace work and one of the prettiest islands in the lagoon and Torcello, one of the quietest and greenest islands that still houses much archeological proof of the glorious past. You could see a mosaic showing the Universal Judgment at an ancient Cathedral or visit the Estuario Museum.
The trip will be worth your while. Find out how to get there and what all to do.

You could also take a look at some architectural wonders at the Brenta Riviera, a waterway which connects Venice to Padua, which is stuffed to its grandiose brim with villas and barchessa’s (annexes that stood along side the main building) all owned by suitably aristocratic and ancient families.

Which brings us full circle back to Venice and its eternal charm… a fine regard for its own noble and glorious past, its unique stature as the only floating city, its happy position - whether sinking or not - as a city filled with richness amid the squalor and knowledge of its own sure attraction.
Be a part of Venice at least once in your life.

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Author Anthony Horowitz of the Alex Rider series called Venice a “living museum”. So while you’re there, you’re part of one of the many exhibits adding to its glory. Now there’s a thought… you didn’t even have to be wax!
Okay... sparing you the bad humor. The best thing you could do for yourself if you’re a culture freak is buy yourself the Orange Venice Card for about 10 pounds a day or 19 pounds for three days to get free entry into some museums, palaces and onto all water buses.

Be sure to visit the Accademia, Guggenheim Museum and Pala d’Oro. You’ll see a range of artwork from Venetian painting through the 14th to 18th centuries, European and American art from the first half of the 20th century and a large living example of Gothic goldsmith’s art.
For classical music visit Goldoni or Palazzo Prigione Vecchie. If you’re a Vivaldi fan, drop by the Pietá church.

The Fenice and Palafenice should be on your circuit for both a culture experience and a tourist look in. The Fenice has had a stormy history burning down in 1996 and since has seen a revival after years of re-structuring and re-creating. It is the one-stop place for dance and opera in Venice.

There are no Cinema houses in Venice, films playing rarely during film festivals but live theatre can be found at the Teatro Malibran.

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Or something like that.

It’s just not possible for me to cover all that you should or can see in Venice. It’ll take me reams of pages just to list the churches and palaces. I’d say, wander around and it will be difficult to miss both grandeur and spiritual simplicity amidst it.
But for those, who like to march out with an agenda in mind and camera in hand, here’s a short list of must see places:

St. Mark’s Square is the heart of the city. Bustling with people, pigeons, sights and always alive and breathing Venice, you could start off here with the Doge’s Palace. The palace composed of the Doge’s chambers and the former political and judicial headquarters of the city is pricelessly ornamented with paintings and frescoes form masters like Tintoretto, Veronese, Tiziano and others. The carved staircases in the courtyard are also lavish symbols of a bygone age.
The Bridge of Sighs connected the prison with the palace. And contrary to its romantic name, is redolent with the sighs of prisoners going to their death.
Follow it up with a visit to St. Marks Basilica. The remains of St. Mark, the patron saint of Venice were brought to the city from Alexandria and have since seen a curious history right from contributing to the city’s supremacy to being stolen.
The winged lions which are the symbols of St. Mark abound in Venice and the Basilica, is an even more emotional and beautiful monument with its gold mosaic covered interior, domed façade, intricate art depicting Jesus Christ and a canvas for over a century of styles. Don’t miss this uplifting encounter with beauty both physical and spiritual.
In Venice, it is well nigh impossible to avoid a bridge. But be sure to visit the Rialto, the oldest bridge on the Grand Canal, a marble upgrade from its old wooden past in the 12th Century. Today the bridge is covered with fish markets and boutiques, flower sellers and peddlers. Take a walk with them and buy yourself flowers while you’re at it.
Whether you do it to save time or because you must, be sure to take a ride down the Grand Canal. You’re in Venice after all.

Other than this, you could always visit other palaces and squares and churches. Each have something uniquely their own to offer and you never know which one murmurs a secret whisper straight to your soul.

You could indulge in an intense three day touring cycle with timely breaks to rest your feet between your sightseeing.
My off-the-track stop: Take a look at San Trovaso boatyard where gondolas are still made today by master craftsmen using the techniques of old.

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Food is a very personal thing for me. My mum would snort and tell you, “She means she’s fussy”. And maybe I am… so I wouldn’t presume to tell anyone what they should eat or where, but I will give you a lowdown of osteria’s and restaurants in Venice. (Osteria’s are places offering regional meals in a home-cooked style.) (I love nuggets… of information)
Venice is considerably expensive to eat in but take a look at the restaurants on the following link recommended by Philip Greenspun. From advice on where to find non-smoking space and where to share a drink across time with Hemingway, he atmospherically gives you a taste for Venetian food. And be sure to scroll down below his article to read the comments… some of the best tips are contained there!

Read!

For a little local color I do recommend, Da Fiore, an old tavern now disguised as one of Venice’s most distinguished and consistent restaurants.
Don’t slim your wallet too much… we still have shopping to get to! Here’s a list of recommended easier-on-the-pocket eateries:
Cheap Food!

And for those of you, who just don’t get why Venice doesn’t have a McDonald’s and don’t want to experiment too much with your food, click on this link and take a look at the ethnic restaurants for cuisine other than strictly Venetian. (I can’t guarantee the prices though!!)

Read

Now that that’s out of the way… can we please hit the shops?!! I don’t want you to think that I’m some kind of addicted shopaholic… but Venice does sell some stuff that I’d love to get my greedy little hands on!

I read in a book once how glass making is an art of life – fire and breath, passion and essence; colors and thoughts swirling and shattering; melting and holding to make a piece. And if you’re in Venice, you must not only visit the glass factory at Murano but buy yourself some too. For a cheaper and a more interesting souvenir, watch Ivano Soffiato in Dorsoduro at his glassblowing work!
Besides glass, you could check out Burano, famous for its lace and practically all streets in Venice boast a mask maker. Take home the mystery of Venice in a mask.
Or its sweet, Zaeti, available in cake shops across the city.
If you like your brands, visit Mercerie, the main shopping street where you can find Sergio Rossi and Gucci and Louis Vuitton, et al.
Give a  little thought to the prices and timings of stores in Venice.

If you did actually buy a Gucci, you probably want to put it to use. Well… Venice is not really abounding with night life. On the surface, things pretty much seem to shut down by 9 PM but you could find yourself little haunts of live music. You could also look at paintings of local artists adorning walls in osteria’s or treat yourself to chamber music or ballet. For those who just want their beer and song, there are a dew American styled pubs in Venice.
To get a better idea of what’s on in Venice, you could pick up the entertainment brochures from the tourist office or pick up the latest Venezia News from the stands.
If you prefer to go well armed, then choose your style of entertainment.

Okay… let’s not get ahead of ourselves! You’ve just reached Venice after all.
If you have set foot on Aeroporto Marco Polo or Aeroporto Treviso, then the prettiest and easiest way to make it to the main town is by boat. You have a choice of public and private boats. The trip could take anything between 25 minutes to an hour depending on traffic and destination.

You could also catch one of the regular shuttle buses or the local bus to Piazzale Roma and shift to a vaporetto from there. Though the local bus is cheaper, handling luggage might be a problem. The journey by bus takes 20 minutes.

If you’ve hit Venice by bus, then you’re likely to first step off at Piazzale Roma. The bus terminal here is connected by buses to various destinations in the city.
If you’re planning to drive down to Venice, then you must be warned.. traffic on the roads just outside of Venice is notorious crowded and once in Venice you might have to pay for garage and parking space.
Imp. Note: Don’t be fooled by tricksters claiming to be officials who can arrange parking space for you!

Reaching Venice by train might require you to switch trains at Mestre. Just remember that if you switch your regional train at Mestre for an Intercity or Eurostar, you’ll need to upgrade or risk a hefty fine.

For traveling within the city, you could economize by using the water buses instead of the pocket pinching gondolas (unless you’re on your honeymoon… even if it’s the nth one). Day passes for the water buses are available. You could also hire a sleep –aboard cruiser for not too much or hire a self drive boat! (And get this… you don’t even need a license.)

Read

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Now that you’ve found a place as good as home, plan your vacation at a time when you can get the most out of what Venice has to offer (that is if you’re quite sure your boss won’t let you take a year off)
Here’s a run down of the best times to visit Venice:

February: in Venice is exciting indeed.. 10 days of the world’s most famous carnival! A simple black sheath and white mask in enough to make you one of the revelers. Of course if you have deeper pockets, you could deck yourself out in elaborate costumes and be part of the many balls and gala dinners.
May: The Vogalonga is not only a boat marathon but one of the strongest and longest standing statements to Venetian authorities. Every year a 30 km non-competitive rowing event is organized to revive the rowing tradition and protest the motorboat traffic harming the foundations of the city.
March – June: Mostly event free months and also free of the usual gaggle of tourists that Venice caters to the rest of the year.
September – August: If you’re film buff, September could help you mix up a potent cocktail – all the inherent drama and romance the city has to offer and The Venice International Film Festival.

Though July and August are usually considered months to avoid because of the high level of tourist inflow, the Festa del Redentore takes place in July and has the famous night of fireworks on the water. It’s like a play in the sky with its own language of color and starbursts.

Get  more details on events on the Venice calendar.

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If you’re like me, you like to spend at least 6 months in one place, soaking in its people, culture, atmosphere. You want to be recognized by its people and speak haltingly in their language.
You want to be part of the breath of the city and you may as well start right by living in an authentic Venetian house. Home after all does define who you are. And for a short while, you could be Venetian.
Staying in a city of doges and palaces, artists and their garrets, it’s only fair that you live like one of them. Whether you want a one bedroom apartment or a palazzo, feel like a native by renting an apartment, big or small, palatial or homely.

If you’re looking for a one bedroom place that could easily sleep four people, I particularly like one called Ca’ Vitturi located in the heart of the city at San Marco. The very tones of the apartment are enough to put you in a holiday mood… warm oranges, deep blue curtains, wooden beams gracing ceilings and spacious white flooring and walls invite you in. At 930 euros for 7 nights, the price of the apartment includes gas, electricity, linen and final cleaning.

For a pallazi experience, take a look at Ca’ Grand Canal. This ground floor apartment near San Marco, as the name suggests, boasts a spectacular view of the Grand Canal. You could stand on a terrace over the canal and toast the stars or keep company with the Salute Church.
What really sold me on it though, was the private garden.
Brick red tiles, dark and faded adorned with fresh green creepers, a lounging chair for a lazy afternoon or breakfast on a fresh morning… had this vision not been enough to tempt me, the practicalities such as the three doubled beds, 2 single beds, bathrooms and spacious living area certainly appealed at 5800 Euros for 7 nights.

For a more graceful choice, I’d suggest Ca’ Giulia. Though one of its rooms seems a trifle over-green for sleeping in, the lovely striped living room with its huge windows promising breathtaking views and sunlight pouring in does make you feel like a cat finding warm, soft contentment. Situated at Cannaregio, it can house 6 people for 3000 Euros over 7 nights.

I think my predilection for wood is going to become apparent with my fourth recommendation – Ca’ Vidal. (and to think I recycle paper!)
This third floor apartment with lift overlooking the Academia Bridge and is situated on the top floor of a palazzo on the Grand Canal. With a double bedroom, twin bedroom and completely furnished kitchen done up deliciously in gleaming wood and stone, this place is like a retreat. Whether you imagine you’re a princess locked in the tower or a small ruffian hiding in the attic, the slanted ceilings do add to the adventure of the place.

For more choices and details on one and two bed roomed as well as large apartments take a look at the homes on offer. I trawled through a great many of them just for the pleasure of looking (!!) and I can tell you most are pretty darned… pretty! Check out locations and grab a place near your interest… whether it’s the Fenice theatre, St. Mark’s Square or a quiet little neighborhood.

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If Paris is the place to fall in love, then Venice has long featured in my romantic imagination as the place to go after the fact.
Venice may well be enchanted with its winged angels and floating churches, its narrow streets and canals embracing each other and bridges that connect not just over a 100 islands into one unforgettable city but also span 400 centuries with all the nonchalance of a true aristocrat. And of course gondolas that float under arches and past palaces on especially starlit nights. (If once in a while, I veer off into seeming dreaminess, just blame it on Venice). No mutterings from a cynical parent about stinking canals can deter me.
And don’t let them deter you. Venice, without hyperbole, is an experience.

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Vicariously roam the globe.   Everyone needs to get away now and then, this tells you how.